Global specialty materials and chemical company Celanese Corporation and athletic apparel brand Under Armour have collaborated to develop a new performance fiber using recycled elastane fibers.
Dubbed NEOLAST, the performance stretch fibers will offer the apparel industry an alternative to spandex, or elastane. The new fiber is being branded as having the potential to solve the pursuit of circular manufacturing for stretch fabrics.
The announcement comes as the apparel industry is one of the biggest polluters with a significant environmental impact. The fashion industry makes up roughly 10% of all global carbon emissions. In addition, 85% of textiles end up in landfills, according to the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe.
The NEOLAST fiber offers stretch, durability, and wicking ability, and is also produced using a solvent-free melt-extrusion process that eliminates potentially hazardous materials typically used to create stretch fabrics made with elastane. The NEOLAST fibers will be produced using recyclable elastoester polymers, and the process is a step toward recycling blended fabrics containing elastane.
“Working with a leading global brand like Under Armour to elevate the performance and sustainability benefits of their products is just the first of many great things we hope to accomplish with this innovative NEOLAST technology,” Tom Kelly, Celanese senior vice president, engineered materials, said in a statement. “Celanese is proud to bring its polymer expertise and technical know-how to help manufacture NEOLAST fibers for textiles and fabrics to meet the specific needs of our customers and other value chain partners. We are just beginning to unlock its potential and look forward to what’s ahead as we explore other opportunities with end users.”
Celanese is exploring the application opportunities with Under Armour, but also aims to make the fiber available to the broader apparel industry.
Recycling is currently of big interest in the apparel sector, with many brands and clothing companies testing out different product applications and materials. Late last year, Stella McCartney created a new parka with Protein Evolution made with rigid packaging waste and industrial textile strappings recycled through the Biopure process, which uses AI-designed enzymes to break down polyester waste into raw materials used to make new, bio-recycled polyester. The material is an "infinitely recyclable” polyester material with a considerably lower carbon impact than polyester made from petroleum.
The European Union is also taking on the issue of waste and emissions in the apparel sector, recently updating its ecodesign regulations, including rules meant to enforce both waste reduction measures and the creation of long-lasting, sustainable products made with fewer resources such as energy and water.
Walmart also teamed up with Rubi Laboratories last year to explore the process of transforming carbon emissions into affordable clothing with zero waste. Nike is another well-known brand testing the waters in this area, introducing a recyclable shoe last year that doesn't use glue, thereby ensuring every part of the shoe can be recycled.
